A rare chat with Luca Laurini, the elusive man behind Label Under Construction.
Luca Laurini a name you may not know but you should. Based in Italy, the meticulous designer is the mastermind behind Label Under Construction. Luca’s expertly crafted, often monochromatic, garments are constructed of the finest fabrics. From silks to cashmeres, Luca’s borderline obsession with natural fibres is what drives him to produce such incredible pieces of work.
We were fortunate enough to be given the opportunity to capture imagery within Luca’s atelier. Located in Perugia, this gigantic space is the birth place of many of his creations. The rows of machinery that fill the room, the vast archive of garments. Perfectly organised, as neat and precise as the hung garments. It’s captivating to see the work that goes into Label Under Construction. Luca often experiments, pushing the boundaries of what can be done. Constantly creating. Many of these experiments live their lives in the archive, never to be released. The following intimate series of photographs captures the impressive space and some of these never before seen garments.
What made you start your brand, why Label Under Construction?
First of all, I think it is important to consider my background and my interests; my family boasts a long tradition in knitwear and I have a real passion for architecture. I therefore decided to channel my creativity in architectural shapes and structures; if you think about it, the first architecture we live in is our outfit. The combination of technology and workmanship that I have been experiencing since I was a child became the starting point to dig into such two concepts and study their expression. The name of my brand comes from the combination of the idea of a label which is in a continuous evolution and development and the resulting acronym, LUC, which echoes my name.
What is the source of inspiration for your collections?
When talking about inspiration, I’d say there is not a unique source. Definitely, the study on materials, on their potential and on the way to transform them is always a starting point for me. What I want to express is a “sophisticated minimalism”. In other words, simple and pure shapes that hide the complex procedures employed to achieve a specific goal either manually or technically.
We all know that you don’t have any conspicuous logo on your items, instead there is a small hole on the back of the neck. Is there a certain idea or attitude you want to communicate to your customers?
Not having an actual logo is a sort of provocation; the name “Label Under Construction” already carries the idea that the brand is not a definitive and final entity, but it is a project in endless movement. Therefore for the logo I chose a logo/non-logo: a hole on every knitted item and a metal circle on all the woven items.
For the knitted pieces, the hole has also a functional role: one of the main features of the brand is that most items are reversible and the two sides often present a very different look. Therefore, I needed to make sure neither side had tags or any other element that could affect the possibility of wearing the garment on both sides.