Introducing Phaédo Studios

For Autumn Winter 2017, Vertice London presents the newest addition to the store, Phaédo Studios. The team travelled to Paris to capture an intimate and close up look at Phaédo Studios’ AW17 collection.

Founded in 2014 and helmed by Chinese designer Zhuzhu, Phaédo is an avant-garde label exploring the world of fashion with a unique, artistic approach.

Making a grand entrance, Phaédo was first introduced to the world of fashion via an installation held at Triennale di Milano in Italy. With its great reception, a certain highlight of the Italian fashion week. The exhibit displayed the brands core ideas, giving the audience the chance to experience the vision of the brand. Carefully curated, blocks of clay supported delicately crumpled hand dyed cotton garments. Rows of hand carved bricks surrounded frame illustrations and images givings an insight into the culture of the brand. The installation and accompanying fashion show illustrated how the worlds of fashion and art overlap and compliment each other.

Zhuzhu’s background, whilst heavily fashion influenced lies in the world of art. Two worlds the designer doesn’t separate when creating. An international education, featuring institutes such as the highly regarded Central Saint Martins and Belgium’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts forming just part of the designers impressive portfolio of experience. Now, based out in the countryside, the designer conducts his work in a studio is built into a cave. This unusual setting is just a further indication of the designers unorthodox approach to fashion.


Phaédo’s approach is artisanal, that of a craftsman. Believing in a hands on approach that adds a new element to a garment. Garments are often produced through various experimental techniques. Working with natural materials to produce something new, brining out hidden features and enhancing pre existing characteristics. A fabric found frequently throughout a Phaédo collection is silk. In previous collections, the fabric known for its luxurious softness is carefully manipulated via several experimental techniques resulting in a fabric much more akin to leather than silk. Th0ugh a conscious effort is made to use natural fabrics which are then naturally dyed and treated, a fabrics origins do not bother Zhuzhu. Never making a conscious effort to work with fabrics originating from a certain area, the designer prefers to work with what he likes. Whatever is best for the purpose.

Zhuzhu and his team strive to create an international product whilst still being considerate of their Chinese heritage. Seeking to use fashion differently, the designers work is redefining the meaning of “Made in China”. Made in China is often (wrongly) associated with, amongst many other negative stereotypes, low quality or mass produced goods. Phaédo’s elegant, innovative and craftsmanship approach rewrites this and brings a whole new meaning to the phrase.

The avant-garde brand specialises in deconstructed tailoring, experimental fabric washing and dying and the crafting of unique silhouettes. With garments often constructed out of natural fabrics, silks and cottons. The Phaédo Studios Autumn Winter 2017 collection illustrates perfectly the brands ability to craft such elegance.

Shop the Phaédo Studios’ AW17 collection here.


Zika Liu

Words by:

Theo Lewis

Edited by:

Theo Lewis